Persimmon

Info

A persimmon is the edible fruit of a number of species of trees of the genus Diospyros in the ebony wood family (Ebenaceae). Persimmons are generally light yellow-orange to dark red-orange in color, and depending on the species, vary in size from 1/2-4 inches in diameter, and may be spherical, or pumpkin-shaped. The calyx often remains attached to the fruit after harvesting, but becomes easier to remove as it ripens. They are high in glucose, with a balanced protein profile. While the persimmon fruit is not considered a "common berry" it is in fact a "true berry" by definition. Commercially, there are generally two types of persimmon fruit: astringent and non-astringent.

Astringent persimmons contain very high levels of soluble tannins and are unpalatable if eaten before softening. These astringent persimmons can also be prepared for commercial purposes by drying. The non-astringent persimmon is squat like a tomato. Non-astringent persimmons are not actually free of tannins as the term suggests, but rather are far less astringent before ripening, and lose more of their tannic quality sooner. Non-astringent persimmons may be consumed when still firm to very soft.

Varieties

  • Fuyu

    Non-astringent. Delicious, large, firm, orange-red fruit when fully ripe. Bright red pulp is delicious and aromatic. Very productive. Self-fertile. Mature height can reach 10' tall.

  • Izu

    Very sweet, tasty, non-astringent fruit. Reddish-orange, medium to large size, round shape. Good quality. Requires pollination. Relatively small tree averages 8-10' when mature. Prefers full sun to partial shade.

  • Tanenashi

    Medium to large, cone-shaped fruit is delicious and sweet to taste. Seedless. Various colors of red, orange, and yellow. Requires pollination. Astringent and very productive. Mature height can reach 20' tall.

Care and Maintenance

  1. Preparing the Hole

    Dig the hole as deep as the root ball, and as much as three times as wide as the diameter of the root ball. Breaking up the soil around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to grow into loose soil to hasten establishment.

  2. Placing Your Tree

    Place the tree carefully in the center of the hole after removing it from the container. The tree's root collar (the bulge right above the root system) should be just above the top of the soil. Don't dig the hole too deep. It is better if the root collar is slightly (1 to 2") higher than ground level because of possible setting.

  3. Filling the Hole

    Carefully fill the hole with soil when the tree is positioned and straight. Fill the hole about 1/3 full and lightly push the soil around the base of the root ball. Fill the remainder of the hole taking care to gently but firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause the roots to dry out. Don't plant the tree too deep. Back fill the soil to the height just below the root collar.

  4. Mulching

    Place 2 to 4 inches of mulch in a 2 to 3 foot circle around the tree. Keep the mulch from touching the trunk to keep fungus from growing on the trunk. Mulch can be aged wood chips or bark. Mulch helps keep roots moist and insulates them, and prevents weed growth. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.

  5. Watering

    Water the tree well as soon as you plant it. Water the tree at least once a week for the first year after planting. A slow, root-saturating, one-hour trickle once a week is recommended for a new tree. The watering schedule should be adjusted accordingly if it rains or is very dry.